The Moon Lake at 4,300m

Chandratal means 'Moon Lake' and the name is earned. At 4,300 metres, the lake sits in a bowl of mountains so still and blue it looks painted. The trail to reach it from the Batal side is just eight kilometres, but altitude makes every step a negotiation. You walk slowly and the mountain teaches you patience.

The Gaddi shepherds have been bringing their flocks to the high pastures around Chandratal every summer for generations. I met Prakash, a young Gaddi who camps here with his family for four months each year. He spoke about the changing seasons — how the snow retreats later each year, how the grazing window is narrowing. 'Our grandfathers had more time here,' he said, looking across the water.

I camped at the lake for two nights. The second night, a full moon rose and turned the water silver. The only sounds were the wind and the bells of a distant herd. I lay outside my sleeping bag and watched satellites trace lines across the sky, feeling the peculiar vertigo of being very small in a very large world — and being completely at peace with it.